David Myers’s Los Angeles eatery empire has an Orange County leg in the Mozza-esque Pizzeria Ortica, which opened in mid-January near South Coast Plaza and the OCPAC.

The restaurant has extended its three-course OC Restaurant week menu, which is a steal when you add up what you would have paid ordering these dishes a la carte. (Don’t you hate when you go to a restaurant and they try to fool you into thinking their “special” is a good deal, when really, it’s no different than ordering a la carte. We’re not fools!)

The Italian word “Ortica,” according to wordreference.com, translates to “nettle,” or “stinging nettle.” I didn’t see the ingredient on the menu, but I hear its one that Myers uses in a ravioli dish. I also hear that Myers plans on opening a second outpost of Ortica near La Cienega, where Sona thrives and the late Boule bakery (sniff) once lived.

The space itself is lovely – long and narrow with a minimalist Dean-and-Deluca feel, with tall archways and a half-open kitchen. (I love it when a kitchen has nothing to hide.)

Short thoughts on food: A pizza margherita (pictured above) is more than enough for one person, and if you’re in need of a post-theater snack, I’d say this would work for two. Here, San Marzano tomatoes, modest discs of mozzarella and wilted basil grace a thin, bubbly crust. (Click on “Read the rest of this entry” for more)

The conserva di pollo (at right) is a mayo-less Italian take on American chicken salad with olive oil, veggies and balsamic dressing. It’s not too heavy for an appetizer, though I do wish it was served with an unleavened bread or a cracker of some sort. It’s mushy, and needed more crunch than the veggies could give.

The ravioli di burrata e ricotta was my personal favorite. I can eat soggy nondescript cheese ravioli and “ravioli” made by Chef Boyardee and think all of it is amazing, but I’m also well-versed in ravioli that comes from the upper echelons of Italian food — and this is one of those dishes. The pasta is al dente, with a scant coating of pomodoro sauce so bright I swear there’s a dab of citrus in it. This will be one of my take-out staples.

And finally, the baba al rhum, a warm, rum-soaked brioche with pistachio ice cream that’s like a bread pudding that an alcoholic would eat. The ice and whipped creams are both necessary to cut through the rum. Not that I’m complaining.

Though they may have a similar concept, Pizzera Ortica and Pizzeria Mozza are two different restaurants. Myers definitely floats some California influences into Ortica’s lighter fare, whereas Mario Batali’s Mozza paints its menu with more rustic Italian meals. Which means I can still make the case for Batali to outpost Mozza to our little neck of the woods (please?).

Pizzeria Ortica, 650 Anton Blvd., Costa Mesa, Calif. Parking structure with validation. 714-445-4900, www.pizzeriaortica.com

– Cynthia Furey

Side note: March Madness is a month-long challenge in which I will post Monday through Friday for the entire month. Thank you for reading!

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